Your First Hunting Gun

I’m going to make three  key assumptions about what you’re looking for in your first hunting gun.

Actually, they’re kinda self-centered assumptions.  I’m going to assume that your needs as a beginner hunter are roughly similar to what mine were when I started.  This means that:

a) you want to buy only 1 firearm (for now);

b)  you certainly do not want to spend more than $1500 doing it; and

c) you want to hunt birds (like geese) and big game (like deer).

Only one question flows these assumptions: what 12 gauge shotgun should I buy?

“Wait”, you say, “what about the other gauges?”  What about the popular 20 gauge?  What about the cool-as-hell and classic 16 gauge?

Fair enough to consider these options.  As Brian Carrusca of Al Flaherty’s Outdoor Store mentioned in our first podcast, 20 gauge shell technology has advanced enough in the last few years that its performance is approaching 12 gauge territory now.  But it isn’t there yet.  12 gauge is still the most versatile cartridge available, with a huge array of loadings that will allow you to take everything from doves to deer.  It is also extremely common – if you forget your ammunition on a hunt and need to stop at a local store for shells, they will more likely have 12 gauge than any other option.

However, if you are smaller-framed or recoil sensitive for any reason, then 20 gauge shotguns are an excellent and versatile option that will also serve you well.  The following discussion applies equally to 12 and 20 gauge shotguns as most new models are available in both gauges.

So what about shell and barrel length?

There are three common shotgun shell lengths: 2.75 inch, 3 inch and 3.5 inch.  Older guns used 2.5 inch shells, which are tougher to find; I won’t deal with these here.

The majority of modern shotguns are chambered to take both 2.75 and 3 inch shells.  This means your only real question is whether you want to pay a slight premium (in cost and weight) for a gun chambered to receive the more powerful 3.5 inch load.

I share the view expressed by Randy Wakeman in this article at chuckhawks.com that you’re probablu better off buying higher-quality 3 inch ammo than dealing with the extra recoil and cost that comes with a 3.5 inch shell.  I’ve never felt the need to have the super magnum shells with me in a duck or goose blind, though I know many would disagree with me.  If you think you might need 3.5 in shells for whatever reason I recommend discussing the issue with the people at your local gun store.

Hunting shotguns typically have barrels ranging between 24 in and 32 in.  This can make a big difference.  A long barrel tends to swing more smoothly and point more easily.  It also tends to get caught in the brush.  I like a 28 inch barrel as a compromise, though my Beretta Urika has a 30 inch barrel.  If you think you’ll shoot mostly clays, you can go for a longer barrel.

What Action Should I Get?

The “action” refers to the manner in which shells are cycled in and out of the chamber when the gun is fired.  The three most common shotgun actions are pump, semi-automatic, and break action.

Pump Action

This the most inexpensive option (aside from single-shot break actions, which I would not recommend).  Pump guns require manual operation to load a new shell into the chamber (you’ve seen it in the movies). This can be a disadvantage, particularly when shooting skeet or sporting clays, as follow-up shots are not as smooth as with the other actions.  That said, many of my friends have great success on the clay range and in the field with this type of gun, it just takes more practice.

A Winchester SXP is a great first pump shotgun that Brian Carrusca mentioned during episode one of our podcast.  If you’re a lefty (or, like me, shoot lefty), check out the Browning BPS, which has a bottom eject and tang safety (on the top of the gun, operated by your thumb) and is extremely rugged and reliable.

Semi Automatic

Semi-automatic shotguns (also called “autoloaders”) load a new shell into the chamber every time the trigger is pulled.  They are either gas-operated or recoil-operated.  This distinction in modern semiautomatics is not hugely important to the beginner, in my view.  More important is whether the gun fits you well when you handle it.

Semi-automatic shotguns are great all-rounders.  You can easily use them for all the clay shooting games and, of course, for hunting

I strongly recommend the Beretta A300 as an entry-level semi-auto.  It will eat any shell, in all conditions, and is ruggedly built with a matte black barrel.  There are less expensive autoloading options, but I prefer the reliability of the Beretta brand and, in terms of bang for your buck (yeah,sorry), I can’t think of a better deal.  I recommend this gun as a first hunting gun more than any other.

Break Action

Break Action shotguns for hunting are overwhelmingly double-barreled, with the barrels stacked vertically (an “over-under”) or set beside each other (a “side-by-side”).  Generally, the consensus seems to be that over-unders are a bit easier to shoot because of the single sight plane (you’re only looking down one narrow piece of metal).  You don’t see anybody shooting a side-by-side in Olympic skeet competitions.  That said, the lines of a well-made side by side gun are, to my mind, extremely appealing.  Having shot (and owned) both types, while the wide sight plane of a side by side takes some getting used to, I’m not good enough to notice a huge difference.

Break action guns have an odd economy – they are either quite cheap or relatively expensive.  If you are going to buy one of these, I would stick with the pricier guns as this tends to correlate with quality and, more importantly, reliability.  I made the mistake of buying an inexpensive Baikal over/under shotgun as my very first gun, only to have it “double” on me a few times in the field (that is, both barrels fired at once).  This isn’t what you want.  This means that, in Canada, you likely need to spend $2,000 or more if you’re buying new, which takes us out of the “under $1,500” requirement above.

I tend to recommend the Beretta Silver Pigeon 1 as a first choice break action shotgun for shooters who want to go down this route.  These guns are beautifully made, visually appealing, and highly reliable with strong warranty service.

Go Pick It Up

Finally, once you’ve decided which shotgun you want, I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to go it out in person, if you have the chance.  The concept of shotgun “fit” is important.  Guns from different brands feel different when lifted to the shoulder.  You should choose a gun that feels the most natural to you, and you can work with staff at your local gun store to help you determine which gun best suits your needs and your frame.